Rennes-le-Château and Rennes-les-Bains

Rennes-le-Château and Rennes-les-Bains

Cubières on the River Cinoble

Take the D14 south from Rennes-les-Bains and find Cubières after Camps sur d'Algy.  The D14, for most of its length, forms the "The Mary Magdalene Route" that I believe Mary and Jesus travelled on their way to Rennes-les-Bains from the Mediterranean coast.  I even located the site of the Roman villa where I believe they stayed . . .  Cubières has an unusual church with three naves, well worth visiting; it was reconstructed from a small part of an abbey left standing, after the Protestants had passed.  Even the front door is breathtaking.

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  It's all about forgiveness.

I was there researching in February with friends Sandy and Daniel.  It was winter.  Where would we eat?  So I went on the computer and looked up or rang all sorts of places, but everywhere was closed.  In the end someone said;  "Well, you could try my friend Michèle . . . "
  So I rang the number and Michèle explained that she ran a chambres d'hôte (guesthouse) but wasn't really open . . . I explained my predicament and she said she would cook us lunch.  Any preferences?  No meat if possible.
  We arrived and found ourselves in a private house!  We were made very welcome.  The atmosphere was really good and we sampled an aperitif while looking at the paintings on the walls, especially the Zodiac one.
  Then we enjoyed a salad of eggs mimosa and tuna and a main course of grilled prawns and rice.
  Chez Michèle is in the old heart of the village at 9 Grande rue but do ring first on 04 68 20 41 63 and brush up your French.  Michèle is great company and obviously enjoy receives people; she also sells honey and other local "bio" products, that is, organic.
  The dining-room opens out onto a small courtyard, warm and sunny on a February day.  Michelle tells us she has bands and musicians there on summer evenings.  It's my bet it's the liveliest place for miles around.  The walls of the courtyard are very old indeed, dating from Visigothic times, I can tell by the stone work.
  This glimpse into life lived by the local people of this tiny village was very valuable to me, thanks to Michèle.

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